Asphalt Driveway Care

Since the liquid component of your asphalt needs time to harden and cure (usually 3-6 months), your driveway will be somewhat soft and pliable until then.

• You can walk on your new driveway immediately after the project is complete, but keep traffic off it for at least 1 day (longer in hotter temperatures).
• Watering down your driveway with a hose on hot days will cool and temporarily harden the asphalt. This is helpful, but not mandatory. If soap suds appear, don’t be alarmed. This is a reaction between the oils found in asphalt and the high chlorine content often found in city water.
• Your new driveway can be damaged by cars driving/starting too fast, pulling in too quickly, and turning around in tight areas. During the first 3-6 months while your driveway is still curing, do not turn your steering wheel back and forth when your car is not moving.
• Avoid using jack stands or car ramps unless a piece of plywood is placed under them to help distribute the weight
• Excessive weight from large heavy vehicles can depress your new driveway. When storing campers and boats for long periods of time, place a piece of plywood under the tongue jack and also under the tires. Lawn chairs, bicycle and motorcycle kickstands exert weight on concentrated areas and can create holes and depressions in your new driveway.

The edges are the weakest part of your driveway due to the lack of side support.

• Avoid driving on the edges since they may crack and crumble.
• We suggest building up the sides of your driveway with topsoil or gravel to approximately one inch from the top of driveway to allow room for sod growth and water drainage. This will support the edges and enhance the appearance after grass has grown.

Your driveway may look smoother in some areas because of the makeup of the asphalt.

• Asphalt is comprised of stone, sand, liquid asphalt, and other ingredients which cause a varied texture on the surface. Driveway areas that have been raked and spread with hand tools may appear different in texture from those spread by machine, but are just as strong.

Although every effort is made to remove and kill any grass, weeds, and dandelions before your driveway is paved, they sometimes have very deep roots.

• If any should push up through your driveway, contact WRS for instructions. We will likely suggest using a spot weed killer to correct this.

Avoid gasoline, oil, anti-freeze, power steering, and transmission fluid spills and leaks. These will dilute the liquid asphalt in your driveway.

• Any hairline cracks that may have developed over the winter due to the contraction or expansion of the ground should be filled with crack filler or sealer. These products can be purchased from your local building supply store or can be professionally applied by WRS.

Finally, to preserve your new driveway, it is advisable to seal it after it has been paved.

• Unprotected driveways remain porous, dry out, become rough, and lose their life rapidly. This results in deterioration, ridges, and upheaval due to frost and freezing. Asphalt is also softened/broken up by gasoline, lube oil, grease, road salts, and anti-freeze.
• Sealer protects asphalt with a coating that is impervious to these harmful elements and also fills and seals hairline cracks. We recommend sealing anytime after 90 days or even the following season.